Lab

• The glass tells the truth. — The whole portrait under a cheap LED. Inside the circle, the same paint under a Mulberry, CRI 98.
• Innocent X, relit. — Drag the glass. Outside: a cheap LED, R9 −3. Inside: Mulberry, R9 92. Same canvas, different light.

• Four lamps, one turban. — Daylight, halogen, Mulberry, cheap LED. The red survives three of them.
• Spot the cheap one. — The same square inch of a 1433 portrait under four lights. One of them costs you the red.

• This is not a filter. — Real lamp spectra, real color science. Watch red go gray under a cheap LED, then come back under a Mulberry.
• What CRI 98 looks like. — The same nine colors under two measured lamps: a cheap LED, and a Mulberry at CRI 98, R9 92.

• 98 out of 100. — That is CRI: how truly a light shows color. Premium LEDs score about 90, cheap ones 75.
• The red test. — Swatch nine is saturated red, the one LEDs fail. Cheap 0. Premium 50. Mulberry 92.

• Two masters. One honest light. — Van Eyck or Velázquez, Mulberry on the left, a cheap LED on the right. Drag the line and watch the skin.
• Your skin is a red painting. — R9 is the red test. The cheap LED scores −43; this lamp scores 92. Slide the line across a master's face.

• Cheap light turns walnut to mud. — R9 is the red test. Cheap LEDs score near 0, premium LEDs 50, Mulberry 92.
• What CRI 98 does for wood. — Browns stay deep and red. Under a cheap LED they flatten toward gray.

• A metal board, not a plastic one. — Ordinary lamps mount their LEDs on plastic, where heat stays put. Ours sit on 1.6 mm aluminum, where it spreads away.
• Cool LEDs live for decades. — Aluminum board. LEDs run at 120 mA of their 150 mA rating. No pulsing. Ten-year warranty.

• Run gently, for decades. — 34 LEDs on five spiral arms, each run well below its rating on steady DC. That is how a lamp lasts.
• A galaxy of 34 LEDs. — Warm white, daylight, amber and red on five spiral arms. Each run at 120 mA of a 150 mA rating.

• Dim it to embers. — One smooth knob on the cord, 100 to 0. The light goes warm white, amber, red, then dark.
• A real knob. Not an app. — Turn it and the light dims smoothly and warms as it goes, like a candle burning down.

• The stripes you cannot see. — A slow-motion camera catches what your eye misses. An ordinary LED bands and pulses. Ours does not.
• 240 frames a second. Nothing moves. — Slow a Mulberry down as far as you like. The light is the same in every frame.

• Two lamps. One wall. — On the left, an ordinary LED lamp. On the right, a Mulberry. Watch the wall.
• The blink you never see. — Ordinary LEDs pulse a hundred times a second. A Mulberry runs on pure, steady current.

Seven numbers worth knowing. They repeat because they matter.

• By the numbers. — 98 CRI. Zero flicker. Ten years. Four colors of light. One cable.
• Count on it. — The few numbers that make a lamp worth keeping for decades.

• Steadier than the meter. — An ordinary LED ripples a hundred times a second. A Mulberry's line is flat down to the meter's own noise.
• A flat line. On purpose. — This is light over time. Theirs ripples. Ours is so steady the meter can't tell it from silence.

• A seismograph for light. — Light over time, written slowly. One lamp shivers. The other only shows the instrument's own grain.
• Nothing to record. — The pen under an ordinary LED never rests. Under a Mulberry, it draws one quiet line.

• Nothing for the meter to find. — Our light is so steady the needle stays inside the instrument's own noise.
• Zero, and staying there. — An ordinary lamp makes the meter shiver. A Mulberry leaves it at rest.

• Down to one red ember. Then dark. — Most LED lamps cut out while still bright. A Mulberry dims all the way down, then goes truly off.
• The last one percent. — Dim a Mulberry and the light turns warmer as it fades, like a fire, until only an ember is left.

• One lamp, four kinds of light. — 3000 K warm white for evenings. 6000 K daylight for work. Amber and red for night.
• Not one white. Four lights. — Most lamps give you one color of light. A Mulberry gives you four, and every blend between.

• Blue light keeps you awake. So we left it out. — In night mode the lamp makes only amber and red light. The blue end of the rainbow is simply dark.
• Zero blue. Not less. Zero. — Every white LED carries a blue spike. Our night mode has none, so melatonin flows as it should.

• Zero PWM. Anywhere. — Ordinary lamps dim by flashing. Mulberry dims the current itself. DC, not pulsed, at every brightness.
• Light that simply stays on. — No pulsing, no strobing, no PWM. Every LED runs on steady DC current, even when dimmed.

• Plugs into the charger you already own. — Plain USB-C. Two ports on the back: one in, one out to the next lamp or your phone.
• USB-C in. USB-C out. — One 3 A charger runs three lamps in a row. The last port still charges your phone.

or another lampor your phone

• Light the next lamp. Or your phone. — Every lamp has two USB-C ports. Power goes in one and on out the other.
• One cord. Two good uses. — Chain a second lamp from the first, or top up your phone beside the bed.

• The lamp is also a charger. — Plug your phone into the second USB-C port on the back. Bedside, sorted.
• One cord on the nightstand. — The lamp runs on USB-C and passes power on to your phone through its second port.

• Guaranteed for ten winters. — A 10-year warranty on every lamp. If anything fails, we repair it.
• A 10-year warranty. In plain words. — If your lamp breaks in the next ten years, we fix it. That is the whole policy.

Solid walnut

“Wood-effect” plastic

• Solid walnut. Not a picture of walnut. — Plastic lamps print a wood photo on a loop. Ours is the wood itself, cut and oiled.
• Grain you can feel. — Left: real oiled walnut, slowly. Right: the printed plastic most lamps are made of.

Walnut

Maple

Mahogany

• Walnut. Maple. Mahogany. — Solid hardwood, cut and finished with oil. Not a veneer glued to something cheap.
• Choose your wood. — Each lamp is cut from one solid hardwood board. The grain goes all the way through.